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Butters have been used for skincare for centuries. They contain nutrients that are easily absorbed by the skin, some with healing properties. Using butters alone or in combination with other oils is an excellent way to moisturize and nourish your skin. Below are several varieties of butters, shelf life, suggested uses and rates of usage. Also noted are the Iodine and SAP values for each. In soap making, lower Iodine values will contribute to a harder bar of soap. SAP Value is used to determine how much lye is required to saponify the oil or butter into soap. Be creative when using butters in your recipes for soaps, balms and lotions and your skin will benefit from their nourishing properties!
Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima - Avocado Oil)
. ..comes from the fruit of the Avocado tree. Its components are moisturizing and healing, a good butter to use for dry or “aging” skin. It is also thought to have some natural sunscreen properties. Avocado Butter has excellent penetrating qualities and has low comedogenicity on skin (pore clogging). Good for use in massage oil, lotion, creme, bar soap, hair care and balms. Avocado Butter should be used within 6 months.
Avocado Butter Usage rate: 5-20% up to 100%, (straight on skin)
Iodine Value : 55-75
SAP Value : 185-205
Cocoa Butter (theobroma Cacoa Seed Butter)
...is an edible vegetable fat obtained from cocoa beans. This butter has a mild chocolate aroma that will remain in your final product (use Deodorized Cocoa Butter to avoid the chocolate scent or use scents that blend well such as Vanilla). Cocoa Butter contains natural antioxidants, provides a barrier on skin to help retain and restore moisture and improves skins elasticity (good for use on a pregnant tummy). Excellent for use in balm, lotion creme and soap (limit to around 15% of total fats and oils to avoid a hard, cracking bar). To melt, it is recommended to “temper”: raise heat slowly over 45 minutes to avoid crystallization. Cocoa Butter is a stable butter with a shelf life of 2-5 years.
Cocoa Butter Usage Rate: Balm 3-10%,
Hair Conditioner 3-5%,
Lotion 3-7 %, Soap 5-10%
Iodine Value : 33-42
SAP Value : 190-200
Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed)
... is extracted from the fruit kernels of the Mango tree. Use alone as a balm or in soap and lotions. Mango Butter is highly moisturizing, is high in antioxidants and sources indicate that it can provide some sunshield abilities. A good choice for lip and body balms as it melts at skin temperature. Stored in a cool dark location, Mango Butter has a shelf life of 1-2 years.
Mango Butter Usage Rates: 3-100%
Iodine Value : 45-60
SAP Value : 183-198
Try this easy recipe for Lip Butter
2 oz Beeswax
4 oz Mango Butter
2 oz Sweet Almond or Olive Oil
.08 oz stevia if using unsweetened flavor oil
.09-.27 oz Flavor Oil
Melt first 3 ingredients microwave or double boiler. Add flavor oil and stevia and stir thoroughly. Pour into containers and cool
(You can substitute whatever oil or butter you happen to have on hand making this a very versatile recipe).
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Mowrah Butter (Madhucca Latifolia Seed Butter)
... is extracted from the seeds of the Indian tree. Mowrah Butter has a mild odor, is soft at room temperature and melts upon skin contact. Mowrah Butter prevents drying of skin, restores skin flexibility and is said to reduce the development of wrinkles. A good butter for use in lotion and cremes. Mowrah Butter should be used within 6 months of purchase.
Mowrah Butter Usage Rate: Balms 5-10%
Hair Conditioner 2-5%
Lotions 3-5%
Soaps 3-6%
Iodine Value:187-196SAP Value : 187-196
Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta)
... is expeller pressed from the seed of the Sal tree (also know as Shorea tree) that is grown in India. Refined Sal Butter has a smooth texture and mild odor. This butter prevents drying of the skin, development of wrinkles, and lends some protection against the sun. Sal Butter has skin softening ability and high oxidative and emulsion stability, making it a good butter for lotions. Also good in balm, cream and soap. Sal Butte is best used within 6 months of purchase.
Sal Butter Usage Rate: Balm 7-100%
Hair Conditioner 3-7%
Lotion 4-8%
Soap 3-6%
Iodine Value: 35-43
SAP Value : 178-192
Shea Butter (Butryospermum Parkii)
... is obtained by cold pressing the seeds of the Karite tree. Shea Butter is a superb moisturizer, gentle enough for use on babies and sensitive skin and has exceptional healing properties. The unsaponifiables (the components that don’t mix with the lye to form soap) in Shea Butter are high, making it a good choice for superfatting in soap making. To superfat, add 3-5% Shea Butter that has been melted and cooled to approximately 75 degrees just before adding scent. For other uses, it is best to heat Shea Butter slowly to about 175 degrees and keep there for about 20 minutes. This will prevent crystals from forming and causing a grainy final product. Shea is best when used within a year of purchase and should be stored in a cool, dark location.
Shea Butter Usage Rate: Balm 5-100%
Lotion 2-5%
Hair Conditioner 2-5%
Soap 3-6%
Iodine Value: 55-71
SAP Value : 180
Try this easy recipe for Lotion Bars
4 ounces Shea Butter
4 ounces beeswax, yellow or white
5 ounces liquid oil
2 teaspoons of essential or fragrance oil
Melt the beeswax in a separate container and the butter/oil in another container. Add together mixing well, stir in FO/EO and pour into containers (push tube or tins). Mixture will harden in approximately 1-2 hours. The cooler the mixture is upon pouring it, the less ‘divets’ you’ll get in the bar (the sunken spot at the top of the bar).
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